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everything is played out in glorious technicolor. This is revealed in the swish of vibrantly hued, silk saris, the artistry of the handicrafts, the glorious architecture of bygone eras, and the wedding processions you happen across. It’s there in the welcoming smiles of the people, the mouthwatering cuisine, and the abundance of festivals. You may even be lucky enough to visit during Holi, which celebrates the end of winter by the exuberant throwing of colored powder – a joyous tradition I memorably shared with my parents.
As a resident, it was a privilege to delve into the heritage and culture of this multilayered place. In a local history group, I learned about Delhi’s turbulent past. It was formed around the establishment of seven cities and empires, from Qila Rai Pithora (near the site of Qutb Minar) to Shahjahanabad, ruled by the creator of the Taj Mahal when Delhi reasserted its dominance with edifices such as the Jama Masjid mosque and the Red Fort.
As soon as you step outside the airport, your senses are greeted with an intoxicating cocktail of heat, hustle and bustle, honking of horns, and the fragrant aroma of jasmine. Your first car ride will reveal a kaleidoscope of vehicles traveling in all directions, lit-up stalls selling street food, the occasional cow, and perhaps even a painted elephant.
Yet, contrasted with this palpable energy and sensory overload is a quiet beauty and serenity found in the elegant lines of Lutyens’ villas in Delhi’s Chanakyapuri enclave, in the opulent palaces and forts of Rajasthan, and most revealingly, by observing people go about their everyday lives.
People often ask me what it’s like to live in India. I respond that it’s as if
Daylight was breaking on a crisp fall morning in Agra, Rajasthan. I’d woken early to be one of the first visitors at the site of India’s most recognizable monument. Stepping through the Darwaza-i-rauza (the Great Gate) with my daughter sleeping soundly in her baby carrier, I caught my breath as a familiar silhouette came into view. The crimson skies slowly brightening, we wandered down the central path flanked by shimmering pools and scented rose gardens, absorbing the magnificent, tranquil beauty of the perfectly symmetrical design. With only a smattering of tourists around, my friend took a picture of my daughter and me posing on the bench made famous when Princess Diana was photographed alone before the Taj Mahal in 1992.
Visiting this incredible monument at sunrise has been just one of the many highlights of my love affair with India which has spanned more than 20 years. It is a story that began with a wedding in rural Andhra Pradesh, where we joyfully feasted on Hyderabadi biryani as we were welcomed into our new Indian family. Since then, multiple trips, family celebrations, and even a stint living in Delhi – beginning with the early arrival of our baby daughter to a soundtrack of Diwali firecrackers – has bound me to the country forever.
Of course, the country I first experienced 20 years ago is very different today. Driven by the IT sector, India has grown to become the world’s fifth-largest economy with its urban centers undergoing remarkable changes in the last couple of decades. In Delhi, satellite cities such as Gurugram and Noida have expanded rapidly to become modern commercial and residential hubs attracting a young, socially mobile, highly educated middle class, many migrating from rural areas. Progress has even reached the humble rickshaw with the rollout in many cities of pink e-rickshaws for female passengers driven by women.
The rise of the middle classes has fueled a flourishing restaurant and retail scene as young urbanites embrace Western influences while honoring traditional aesthetics and flavors. Delhiites and Mumbaikars are just as likely to dine on high-end Pan-Asian cuisine at Miso Sexy and Town Hall as they are Indian dishes at Bukhara and Masque. I still dream of the former’s lip-smacking tandoori chicken and dahl makhani. At the glittering DLF Emporio mall in Delhi, homegrown designers such as Ritu Kumar and Ranna Gill vie with international brands such as Louis Vuitton and Louboutin. Meanwhile, in Delhi’s Mehrauli enclave, Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s eponymous atelier is a showcase for his elaborate gowns and wedding dresses.
From the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayas to the tropical beaches of the south, you could spend a lifetime attempting to understand India’s rich mosaic of cultures and landscapes. One of the oldest civilizations in the world, this is a land of magnificent fortresses perched on hilltops, bustling cities color-coded in pink, white, and blue, and romantic palaces seemingly floating on water. It’s where tea plantations hug the slopes in verdant hill stations, where people still haggle in spice markets dating back to the 17th century, and where life in all its contrasts is displayed in front of you.
Vibrant, dynamic, welcoming, overwhelming, complex, enigmatic, chaotic, heartwarming, spiritual . . . India is all this and more. Branded “Incredible India” by the tourist board, it’s a land that compels you to live and breathe it.
Beautiful buildings on Lake Pichola, a large, freshwater man-made lake in Udaipur. Image credit: Shutterstock
Colorful textiles for sale at a Jaipur market. Image credit: Shutterstock
Assorted sides with dahl makhani. Image credit: Shutterstock
Preparing to celebrate Holi, the Festival of Colors. Image credit: Shutterstock
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Looking back at our time in Mehrauli, South Delhi, I realize each day brought a new adventure. I might be haggling for vegetables in hesitant Hindi at INA Market, watching the monkey wallah (men who are trained to scare away monkeys) shoo primates out of the backyard, or whizzing around on a cycle rickshaw through the alleyways of Old Delhi.
The next day, an impromptu invite for a neighbor’s wedding might arrive, or I’d be with friends at a cricket match (the sport has near religious status) at Feroz Shah Kotla stadium. I was even an extra in a movie (sadly consigned to the cutting-room floor) and unknowingly gatecrashed a Diwali party with Mumbai glitterati in a Goan villa. That’s not to mention the celebrity status our tiny, pink-cheeked daughter enjoyed everywhere she went.
There’d be languid days exploring hip neighborhoods such as Hauz Khas followed by a masala dosa at South Indian restaurant Naivedyam; Sunday afternoon walks observing the laughter yoga classes and shy young lovers in the serene Lodhi Gardens; or browsing for homewares in the higgledy-piggledy alleyways of Khan Market – one of the most expensive strips of retail estate in the world.
As part of the “Golden Triangle” with Delhi and Jaipur, Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, is an obvious first destination. Built by the grief-stricken 17th-century Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his beloved wife, the Taj Mahal is a mesmerizing sight. At closer inspection, its beauty only amplifies as you observe the intricate “pietra dura” inlay on the luminous white marble – delicate patterns representing Indian flowers, fashioned with semi-precious stones such as lapis lazuli, jade, and garnet. It’s nothing less than exquisite.
You can do a (long) day trip from Delhi, but to really appreciate the singular beauty of this wonder of the world, stay a day or so longer to visit at different times of the day. Add the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Fatehpur Sikri to your itinerary. Wandering around this impressively well-preserved complex of monuments, you can imagine what life was like back during its time as the short-lived capital of the late-16th-century Mughal Empire.
The last stop of the “Triangle” and the capital of Rajasthan, the “Pink City” of Jaipur will always have a special place in my heart. Painted pink in the late 1800s to welcome the then Prince of Wales, it’s achingly beautiful, from the mysterious Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), noted for its intricately carved windows, to the grandeur of the Amer Fort, perched up high surveying the surrounding landscape. For a fitting nightcap, order a gin and tonic in the peacock-blue Mughal decor of Bar Palladio, undoubtedly one of the world’s most beautiful bars.
Our time in Jaipur included a long weekend staying in an atmospheric 16th-century palace with our six-month-old during the Jaipur Literature Festival. I also treasure the memories of a trip my daughter and I took with my mother – three generations of women exploring this wonderful city together, shopping in the bazaars until our feet hurt.
Jaipur is famous for the traditional craft of block printing, a technique that uses detailed carved wooden blocks to print designs such as floral motifs and geometric patterns onto cotton or silk. You’ll find stores selling block-printed fabrics all over the city, but for a closer look at this ancient craft at work, visit the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing. Housed in a stunning 400-year-old building, watch demonstrations before being spoiled for choice for quilts and tablecloths at the boutique.
Being based in Delhi, the northern state of Rajasthan was a natural starting point for my explorations of this vast subcontinent. Many of the main destinations are accessible by a manageable drive or short flight – ideal for a weekend getaway or linking together for an extended itinerary. Renowned for its rich history and vibrant culture, Rajasthan often feels like a place out of a story book, as unlike the more Westernized Delhi, traditional garb is more commonly worn, and the landscape is dotted with forts and palaces harking back to past empires. Many of these magnificent former residences of maharajahs have been transformed into some of the world’s most exceptional hotels – with service levels to match.
An ancient temple at Gadisar Lake in Jaipur. Image credit: Shutterstock
Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) in Jaipur was built in 1799 from red and pink sandstone. Image credit: Shutterstock
EXPLORING RAJASTHAN
As part of the “Golden Triangle” with Delhi and Jaipur, Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, is an obvious first destination
A 45-minute flight to the southwest, Udaipur is often called “The Venice of the East,” and as soon as you arrive you know why. A favorite destination of honeymooners, it’s heart-stoppingly romantic. Palaces, temples, and havelis (traditional houses) line the shores of a man-made freshwater lake created in the 14th century with the famous floating white palace in the center. Boat rides on Lake Pichola offer that archetypal snapshot of India: dhobi wallahs (laundry people) handwashing garments on the ghats (steps leading down to the water) flanked by the grandeur of the City Palace and the surrounding Aravali Hills in the distance. Then, explore the maze of streets in Old Udaipur with its bustling bazaars. We spent a dreamy day being driven around in a
vintage car before visiting the historic car collection of the current maharajah, who still lives in the City Palace with his family, ending with fine Indian dining at the open-air Sheesh Mahal at The Leela Palace Udaipur.
To the northwest is the contrasting but equally romantic destination of Jaisalmer. Named the “Golden City,” its location in the heart of the Thar Desert meant it was an important trading stop on the ancient Silk Route. The imposing sandstone fort of Sonar Quila is one of the largest preserved fortified cities in the world. Wandering along its narrow lanes, past the Jain temples and exquisitely carved havelis, feels like you’re on a movie set – and the wow factor dials up even higher at night-time. Even more remarkable is the chance to live out your Lawrence of Arabia fantasy with a safari deep into the desert by camel or jeep, depending on how adventurous you feel.
Women in bright national costumes dance at Rajasthan International Folk Festival. Image credit: Shutterstock
Kochi, one of India’s most culturally diverse cities thanks to its heritage as a center of trade. Here, Hindu, Muslim, Christian, and Jewish traditions converge in this picturesque, laid-back city, which also boasts many fine examples of colonial architecture. Witness the catch of the day being taken in from the Chinese fishing nets before browsing spice markets and local handicraft emporiums.
But perhaps the most memorable way to enjoy this slower, gentler lifestyle is to venture into the Kerala backwaters, the ideal vantage point to appreciate life in rural villages and the tranquil natural environment. I’ll never forget the day we chartered a kettuvallam (a traditional wooden houseboat) and floated leisurely along the interconnected waterways, and that feeling of serenity as we spotted kingfishers and cormorants while we glided by the lush landscape of emerald lagoons, coconut groves, and paddy fields.
Looking back on all these adventures and so many more, I realize that India is a country that seeps into your heart and soul, and ever since that first visit, it’s held me under a spell. Flicking through old photographs, tasting Indian flavors, or hearing Hindi pop music, I am overcome by a wave of nostalgia and long to return. When friends tell me they plan to travel there, my heart leaps for joy about the magic that awaits them. I hope you, too, have the chance to one day experience the many contrasts of India in all its unique beauty.
After the vibrancy and busyness of northern states, it is a refreshing change of pace when you explore the more relaxed, serene culture and landscapes of southern India. Blessed with a more moderate climate, the southwestern state of Kerala is a cornucopia of natural beauty, from the palm-fringed beaches of Kovalam and verdant terraces of hill stations such as Munnar and Ooty to the labyrinthine system of waterways of world-famous backwaters. Kerala cuisine also introduces you to a whole new raft of flavors heavily influenced by the coastal location and tropical climate. Try appam (traditional pancakes) for breakfast, served with aromatic coconut-based seafood curries.
On the Malabar Coast, overlooking the Arabian Sea, lies Kerala’s capital,
A kettuvallam sailing through Kerala. Image credit: Shutterstock
Tea plantations in Munnar, Kerala, India. Image credit: Shutterstock
THE MELLOW MALABAR COAST
Women on their way to collect water from an ancient stepwell near Jaipur. Image credit: iStock
Visitors can ride elephants up the steep hill to the Amber Fort complex. Image credit: Shutterstock
Image credit: Shutterstock. Kuala Lumpur's iconic twin Petronas Towers are instantly recognizable in the capital city's skyline
The rise of the middle classes has fueled a flourishing restaurant and retail scene as young urbanites embrace Western influences while honoring traditional aesthetics and flavors. Delhiites and Mumbaikars are just as likely to dine on high-end Pan-Asian cuisine at Miso Sexy and Town Hall as they are Indian dishes at Bukhara and Masque. I still dream of the former’s lip-smacking tandoori chicken and dahl makhani. At the glittering DLF Emporio mall in Delhi, homegrown designers such as Ritu Kumar and Ranna Gill vie with international brands such as Louis Vuitton and Louboutin. Meanwhile, in Delhi’s Mehrauli enclave, Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s eponymous atelier is a showcase for his elaborate gowns and wedding dresses.
Image credit: Shutterstock. Colorful textiles for sale at a Jaipur market
As part of the “Golden Triangle” with Delhi and Jaipur, Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, is an obvious first destination. Built by the grief-stricken 17th-century Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his beloved wife, the Taj Mahal is a mesmerizing sight. At closer inspection, its beauty only amplifies as you observe the intricate “pietra dura” inlay on the luminous white marble – delicate patterns representing Indian flowers, fashioned with semi-precious stones such as lapis lazuli, jade, and garnet. It’s nothing less than exquisite.
You can do a (long) day trip from Delhi, but to really appreciate the singular beauty of this wonder of the world, stay a day or so longer to visit at different times of the day. Add the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Fatehpur Sikri to your itinerary. Wandering around this impressively well-preserved complex of monuments, you can imagine what life was like back during its time as the short-lived capital of the late-16th-century Mughal Empire.
Being based in Delhi, the northern state of Rajasthan was a natural starting point for my explorations of this vast subcontinent. Many of the main destinations are accessible by a manageable drive or short flight – ideal for a weekend getaway or linking together for an extended itinerary. Renowned for its rich history and vibrant culture, Rajasthan often feels like a place out of a story book, as unlike the more Westernized Delhi, traditional garb is more commonly worn, and the landscape is dotted with forts and palaces harking back to past empires. Many of these magnificent former residences of maharajahs have been transformed into some of the world’s most exceptional hotels – with service levels to match.
Image credit: Shutterstock. Colorful textiles for sale at a Jaipur market
Image credit: Shutterstock. Beautiful buildings on Lake Pichola, a large, fresh water man-made lake in Udaipur
The Delights of Delhi
The last stop of the “Triangle” and the capital of Rajasthan, the “Pink City” of Jaipur will always have a special place in my heart. Painted pink in the late 1800s to welcome the then Prince of Wales, it’s achingly beautiful, from the mysterious Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), noted for its intricately carved windows, to the grandeur of the Amer Fort, perched up high surveying the surrounding landscape. For a fitting nightcap, order a gin and tonic in the peacock-blue Mughal decor of Bar Palladio, undoubtedly one of the world’s most beautiful bars.
Our time in Jaipur included a long weekend staying in an atmospheric 16th-century palace with our six-month-old during the Jaipur Literature Festival. I also treasure the memories of a trip my daughter and I took with my mother – three generations of women exploring this wonderful city together, shopping in the bazaars until our feet hurt.
Jaipur is famous for the traditional craft of block printing, a technique that uses detailed carved wooden blocks to print designs such as floral motifs and geometric patterns onto cotton or silk. You’ll find stores selling block-printed fabrics all over the city, but for a closer look at this ancient craft at work, visit the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing. Housed in a stunning 400-year-old building, watch demonstrations before being spoiled for choice for quilts and tablecloths at the boutique.
Image credit: Shutterstock. Visitors can ride elephants up the steep hill to the Amber Fort complex
A 45-minute flight to the southwest, Udaipur is often called “The Venice of the East,” and as soon as you arrive you know why. A favorite destination of honeymooners, it’s heart-stoppingly romantic. Palaces, temples, and havelis (traditional houses) line the shores of a man-made freshwater lake created in the 14th century with the famous floating white palace in the center. Boat rides on Lake Pichola offer that archetypal snapshot of India: dhobi wallahs (laundry people) handwashing garments on the ghats (steps leading down to the water) flanked by the grandeur of the City Palace and the surrounding Aravali Hills in the distance. Then, explore the maze of streets in Old Udaipur with its bustling bazaars. We spent a dreamy day being driven around in a vintage car before visiting the historic car collection of the current maharajah, who still lives in the City Palace with his family, ending with fine Indian dining at the open-air Sheesh Mahal at The Leela Palace Udaipur.
To the northwest is the contrasting but equally romantic destination of Jaisalmer. Named the “Golden City,” its location in the heart of the Thar Desert meant it was an important trading stop on the ancient Silk Route. The imposing sandstone fort of Sonar Quila is one of the largest preserved fortified cities in the world. Wandering along its narrow lanes, past the Jain temples and exquisitely carved havelis, feels like you’re on a movie set – and the wow factor dials up even higher at night-time. Even more remarkable is the chance to live out your Lawrence of Arabia fantasy with a safari deep into the desert by camel or jeep, depending on how adventurous you feel.
Image credit: Shutterstock. An ancient temple at Gadisar Lake in Jaipur
After the vibrancy and busyness of northern states, it is a refreshing change of pace when you explore the more relaxed, serene culture and landscapes of southern India. Blessed with a more moderate climate, the southwestern state of Kerala is a cornucopia of natural beauty, from the palm-fringed beaches of Kovalam and verdant terraces of hill stations such as Munnar and Ooty to the labyrinthine system of waterways of world-famous backwaters. Kerala cuisine also introduces you to a whole new raft of flavors heavily influenced by the coastal location and tropical climate. Try appam (traditional pancakes) for breakfast, served with aromatic coconut-based seafood curries.
On the Malabar Coast, overlooking the Arabian Sea, lies Kerala’s capital, Kochi, one of India’s most culturally diverse cities thanks to its heritage as a center of trade. Here, Hindu, Muslim, Christian, and Jewish traditions converge in this picturesque, laid-back city, which also boasts many fine examples of colonial architecture. Witness the catch of the day being taken in from the Chinese fishing nets before browsing spice markets and local handicraft emporiums.
But perhaps the most memorable way to enjoy this slower, gentler lifestyle is to venture into the Kerala backwaters, the ideal vantage point to appreciate life in rural villages and the tranquil natural environment. I’ll never forget the day we chartered a kettuvallam (a traditional wooden houseboat) and floated leisurely along the interconnected waterways, and that feeling of serenity as we spotted kingfishers and cormorants while we glided by the lush landscape of emerald lagoons, coconut groves, and paddy fields.
Looking back on all these adventures and so many more, I realize that India is a country that seeps into your heart and soul, and ever since that first visit, it’s held me under a spell. Flicking through old photographs, tasting Indian flavors, or hearing Hindi pop music, I am overcome by a wave of nostalgia and long to return. When friends tell me they plan to travel there, my heart leaps for joy about the magic that awaits them. I hope you, too, have the chance to one day experience the many contrasts of India in all its unique beauty.
Image credit: Shutterstock. Assorted sides with dahl makhani
Land of Prosperity
Image credit: Shutterstock. Tea plantations in Munnar, Kerala, India
People often ask me what it’s like to live in India. I respond that it’s as if everything is played out in glorious technicolor. This is revealed in the swish of vibrantly hued, silk saris, the artistry of the handicrafts, the glorious architecture of bygone eras, and the wedding processions you happen across. It’s there in the welcoming smiles of the people, the mouthwatering cuisine, and the abundance of festivals. You may even be lucky enough to visit during Holi, which celebrates the end of winter by the exuberant throwing of colored powder – a joyous tradition I memorably shared with my parents.
As a resident, it was a privilege to delve into the heritage and culture of this multilayered place. In a local history group, I learned about Delhi’s turbulent past. It was formed around the establishment of seven cities and empires, from Qila Rai Pithora (near the site of Qutb Minar) to Shahjahanabad, ruled by the creator of the Taj Mahal when Delhi reasserted its dominance with edifices such as the Jama Masjid mosque and the Red Fort.
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August 2024 (Volume 25)
Writer Sarah Notton celebrates the culture, beauty, and energy of this remarkable country
August 2024 (Volume 25)